Varanasi, the eternal city, glows in divine brilliance every Kartik Purnima as it hosts Dev Diwali—the festival of the gods. Unlike the more widely-known Diwali celebrated by mortals, Dev Diwali is marked fifteen days later, on the full moon night of the sacred Kartik month, when it’s believed all gods descend to Earth and join devotees in celebrating light’s triumph over darkness.
The Significance of Dev Diwali
On Kartik Purnima, Varanasi transforms into a celestial stage where faith and tradition converge. According to
Hindu mythology, this night commemorates Lord Shiva’s victory over Tripurasura, the demon of three cities, symbolizing the destruction of evil and restoration of dharma. It’s said that after this cosmic battle, the gods light earthen lamps as an offering to Shiva—giving birth to the tradition of Dev Diwali.
For Varanasi, Kartik Puja marks the last major festival of the year, ending a month of intense rituals, fasting, deep charity, and devotional music. The entire city, from Kashi Vishwanath temple to the winding ghats, celebrates not just victory, but purification and the renewal of cosmic order.
The Grand Spectacle at the Ghats
Every year, on Dev Diwali, the Ganges comes alive in a spectacle unmatched anywhere in the world:
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Around 10 lakh (one million) earthen diyas are lit by devotees on all 84 ghats—from Raj Ghat to Ravidas Ghat—painting a river of golden light along the water’s edge.
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Temple bells and conch shells resound, with mantras and hymns echoing over the waters as devotees chant “Har Har Mahadev.”
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The night features a grand Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat, performed by 21 Brahmins and 42 devakanyas (young women), their synchronized movements a meticulous ode to the river goddess.
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Alongside the lamps, the ghats are adorned with bright rangolis and fresh flowers, while cultural performances and classical music weave through the cool November air.
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This year, more than 2.5 million pilgrims and visitors are expected to converge, making it one of the largest religious gatherings in the world.
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A highlight is the “Diya Vilasa”—boats filled with lamps that are set afloat, the flames reflecting endlessly across the water.
Spiritual Customs and Rituals
Dev Diwali isn’t just a visual feast—it’s a deeply spiritual occasion:
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Kartik Snan: Devotees gather at dawn for a ritual bath in the Ganges, believed to cleanse all sins of the year.
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Deepdaan: Lighting lamps for ancestors and gods is considered a supreme act of merit on this night; the diyas represent prayers for liberation and gratitude for light in life.
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Charity: Acts of generosity—feeding the poor, gifting clothes or essentials—carry special significance, multiplying spiritual rewards a hundred-fold, according to tradition.
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Worship: Devotees visit temples for Shiva, Vishnu, and Ganga worship, making offerings of sweets, fruits, and water, with homes also decorated with lamps and colorful artwork.
Dev Diwali is a celebration for all: Hindus honor Shiva, Jains mark the attainment of nirvana by Mahavira, Sikhs observe Guru Nanak Jayanti, and Buddhists offer prayers for world peace.
The City as a Living Mandala of Light
Varanasi’s ancient lanes, palatial havelis, and gently sloping ghats become a living mandala—geometry of light and sound. Laser shows and green fireworks, introduced in recent years, add modern accents to the centuries-old ritual, drawing both locals and tourists into the devotional story. Throughout the month of Kartik, smaller events—Satsangs, bhajan evenings, and community service—lead up to this night of spiritual climax.
Devotees from around the world join hands to light the city. It’s common to see young and old, rich and poor, working side by side to keep the lamps burning through the chilly night—each flame a personal prayer, a collective hope.
Sustainability and Modern Changes
Growing crowds have inspired local organizations to promote eco-friendly celebrations:
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Use of clay lamps and natural oils to avoid plastic waste.
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Encouraging responsible charity and distribution of essentials to street children, widows, and the underprivileged.
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Crowd management and public safety with local volunteers and strict regulation by city authorities.
The Enduring Magic of Dev Diwali
As Kartik Purnima draws to a close, the spectacle of Dev Diwali in Varanasi lingers: the fragrance of flowers, the glow of ten lakh diyas on the sacred river, and the echo of ancient prayers celebrate the eternal bond between light and life. Here, the physical and the divine meet in a festival that reaffirms our place in the cosmos, bearing witness to centuries of devotion.
